home products purchase technical info artist community faq about us contact us dealer login

Browse Products:

Aquabord
Artist Panel
Claybord

Claybord Box Kit
Encausticbord
Gessobord
Hardbord
Books, Kits, DVD's
Pastelbord
Scratchbord

The Art Shadow Box
Tools & Accessories
Stampbord

Bookmark and Share  



To learn more about artist Jennifer Phillips and to see a slide show of this exercise, visit www.jenniferphillipsart.com

Click here for a PDF version of this article.
Must have Acrobat Reader.


I am always looking for ways to
create subtle contrast between hard
and soft edges in my work. While using
a brush to create some of the softer
applications of paint, I often use other
tools like palette knives, needle tools,
and oil bars to create my heavier textures.
These materials work best on
a firm support, therefore choosing
the right substrate to paint on is very
important. Unlike canvas, which can
be flexible, Gessobord™ from Ampersand
provides me with a strong rigid
support that withstands a heavier
hand and meets the demands of oil
bars, palette knives, and texturing
mediums. The surface also allows me
to work in thinner washes and with
soft blended brush strokes. The 2”
Deep Cradle Gessobord, with its attractive
wood sides, is gallery ready
to hang and does not require framing,
giving it a modern look when hanging
on the wall.

To begin this painting, I prepared
a 16x20 Deep Cradle Gessobord by
first taping off the natural wood edges
with painters tape to keep the area
clean. Using a palette knife, I applied
a combination of Golden’s Molding
Paste and Crackle Paste to the lower
half of the board to give texture to
the grassy field area. After it dried, I
sealed it with Golden Soft Gel Medium
and then gave the whole surface
a layer of Daniel Smith Venetian Red
Gesso. Portions of the red color peak
through the final layers of my painting
and unify the color palette. I then
sketched in the composition using a
dark brown Conte pencil.

I developed the initial stages of
the painting using a mixture of oil
bar colors and a low toxicity mineral
spirit called Daniel Smith Sol. I
spread a wash of the spirits over the
surface and then used a raw umber
and burnt sienna oil bar to develop
the tree forms (A). While the surface was still wet, I used a rag to wipe out shapes along the base of the trees to show soft light coming through (B).

Next, I used a variety of oil colors
to blend in the sky and to create the soft edges of the tree tops (C). For the sky, I used a mixture of zinc white with hansa and yellow ochre for the warmer areas and raw umber for the cooler areas. I used mixtures of olive green and raw umber to create the trees in the distance, and then began to lay in the rich yellows of the distant field. At this point, I began defining the areas of light at the base of
the trees using a mixture of hansa and yellow ochre, zinc white and a little raw umber. This was when I started refining the shapes and creating hard edge contrast. I did this by scraping paint away with a needle tool, drawing back into the surface to create a
suggestion of branches. Then I went back and added delicate colored lines with a #4 script brush.

Working dark to light, I focused on laying down initial layers of raw umber oil bar in the foreground and then, using a heavy hand, scumbling across the surface in a horizontal linear pattern with raw sienna oil bar.
Subsequent colors of oil bar were used to build up the color and surface of the field. They were heavily applied to the surface, scraped away, and then reapplied using a palette knife (D).

To finish, I used a #12 fan bristle brush to blend the trees and parts of the foreground. Once the painting was dry to the touch, I used a damar retouch spray to unify the surface of
the painting. This varnish will allow the painting to continue drying until a final varnish is applied. I removed the tape that was protecting the sides of the Gessobord panel and my painting is now ready to hang!