Andrew Bennett
"Ritual Burning within the Construct of a Grid"
Soot, wax on Claybord
Original (Smooth)
 
Some General Tips on Encaustic
The following tips just touch on a few important points about using encaustic paint. We recommend you use Claybord Smooth because you need a rigid panel and an absorbent ground to successfully use encaustics. The surface needs to be rigid so that there is no shrinkage or warping over time that will harm the wax surface. Encaustic also needs a ground that is porous enough for the wax to adhere to. Claybord Smooth's coating compares with traditional grounds used for encaustic painting made of hide glue, chalks and white pigment that are difficult to prepare yourself.
 
 
Using Encaustic on Claybord Smooth

The word encaustic comes from Greek and means to burn in, which refers to the process of fusing the paint. Encaustic is a beeswax based paint that is kept molten on a heated palette. It is applied to a surface where it is reheated in order to fuse the paint into a uniform enamel-like finish.

A hot palette can be made with a 1/4" thick sheet of aluminum on hardwood legs and set over a temperature-adjustable hot plate. Electric griddles, frying pans or chafing dishes can also be used as palettes. The palette also provides a platform to keep knives and brushes warm and ready for use. A palette temperature of around 200 degrees should be adequate.

Too high a sustained temperature can decompose the wax and some pigments, making them toxic. Any tools can be used to apply the wax to the panel. Brushes, palette knives, modeling tools, etc. To clean brushes after use, keep a container of cheap wax on your palette. Work your brushes in the wax and wipe clean. Mineral spirits will clean wax residue off of brushes and tools but use caution when using mineral spirits near heat. They are flammable and toxic when used on heated tools. Apply the paint with a brush or spatula or pour or drip onto the panel. The panel is easier to work on horizontally, but to create dripping effects, turn vertically. The paint will harden immediately or in a few minutes. It should then be remelted or fused onto the clay or gesso surface.

It is important to fuse between layers to prevent them from separating when applied thickly. When the painting has cooled, it has reached its permanent state. No further work (other than a mild buffing) needs to be done on it. Work can be erased by simply scraping off the paint. Experiment with creating optical effects by using more extender, raising the temperature for more fluidity, or by separating colors by medium alone to get more depth. For the paint to be thoroughly fused, it needs only to reach a molten state. Proper fusing can be easily determined with practice.

To heat from the front, use heated spatulas and electric irons. The paint can be both modeled and fused in this manner. Indirect heating can be done with an infrared warming lamp and reflector screwed into a light clamp with a Bakelite or porcelain socket. Held a few inches from the picture, it gives a slower but more even fusing, good for blending colors and for a very uniform enamel finish.

To heat from the rear, place a very low heat source behind the panel. This will keep the paint fluid the entire time it is being worked on and will require little, if any, fusing from the front. Use a hot palette, incandescent bulbs, and electric hot pad, or a hot palette. Buff your finished piece to an enamel finish by using a cotton cloth or slightly more abrasive tissue.The buffing will give the final lustrous touch to the painting. Many possibilities exist when using encaustic.

Try collage, relief and modeling, casting and carving large shapes and adhering them to the panel. Experiment and let us know what you come up with.