Artwork by Francisco Benitez, R&F Encaustics on Encausticbord™.

About Encaustic Paint
The word encaustic comes from Greek and means to “burn in”, which refers to the process of fusing the paint. Encaustic is a paint composed of beeswax, damar resin and pigments. The term “Encaustic” is often used to describe both the paint itself, and the method for using it. Encaustic paint is applied molten to an absorbent surface, and then fused, (or re-melted), to create a variety of effects. Unlike other paints, encaustic is never wet or dry – it goes from a liquid to solid state and back again in seconds, which means additional layers can be added immediately, without disrupting your composition. Once the surface has cooled, the paint has reached a permanent finish, but the painting can be revised and reworked with heat at any time – minutes or years later.

Encaustic Supports
Encaustic paint is best used on a rigid surface that is both absorbent and heat resistant. Wood supports make great, stable panels. Stretched canvas is not recommended. Over time, the rigid encaustic on the more flexible canvas will tend to crack as the canvas flexes with changes of temperature and humidity. Also, the weight of the wax, if applied thickly, may cause the canvas to sink in the center. While in the past we have recommended Claybord for encaustics, we have since developed a amazing surface called Encausticbord™ that is rigid, absorbent, heat resistant and made especially for the unique demands of encaustic painting.

Palettes and Heat
A hot palette can be made with a 1/4" thick sheet of aluminum on hardwood legs and set over a temperature-adjustable hot plate. Electric griddles, frying pans or chafing dishes can also be used as palettes. The palette also provides a platform to keep knives and brushes warm and ready for use. A palette temperature of around 200 degrees should be adequate. Too high a sustained temperature can decompose the wax and some pigments, making them toxic. It is important to keep the temperature between 180–220 F. R&F Handmade Paints offers a ready-made aluminum palette for encaustics. See the R&F website for more information on the palette here:

Brushes and Tools
Use only natural-hair brushes for brushing on and fusing wax – synthetic brushes will burn or melt and cannot sustain the heat. Use palette knives for carving and applying wax, modeling tools for etching and carving, all types of absorbent papers for collage. Even dip or pour wax onto the surface. The possibilities are endless!

To clean brushes after use, keep a container of soy wax on your palette. Work your brushes in the wax and wipe clean. Soy wax (actually partially hydrogenated soybean oil) is an excellent alternative to paraffin for cleaning brushes for several reasons. Soybeans are a renewable resource, unlike paraffin, which is a petroleum product. Soy wax is non-toxic, burns cleaner than paraffin, and is naturally biodegradable. Soy wax is also easier to remove than paraffin wax, so after the color has been cleaned out of the brush, the brush can be washed with soap and water and is reusable in other mediums.

Fusing
The first fusing layer of encaustic wax medium is very important because it will ensure proper adhesion of future layers of wax as the painting progresses. Encausticbord™ should be warmed before applying the initial fusing layer so that the wax will flow more evenly over the surface.  Warm the panel for a few moments using a heat gun or by placing it on a hot plate/palette until the panel is warm to the touch. While the panel is still warm, use a hake or natural bristle brush to quickly cover the panel with long smooth strokes that slightly overlap each other. Then, heat or “fuse” the whole surface to an even “wetness” and until there is a perfectly even film of wax covering the ground. Each layer of wax should be fused this way before applying the next.

Image Transfer
The adhesive properties of the wax allow for the transference of some types of imagery including photocopy prints. Place the image facedown onto a smooth, flat wax surface that has been fused in the last ½ hour. A smooth surface works best to pick up all the details of your image. Burnish thoroughly from the back using a spoon or burnisher. Wet the back of the image with water, and continue burnishing. Then, begin to rub away the paper adding more water as necessary. Continue rubbing until all the paper has been removed leaving your image magically suspended on the surface!

Mixed Media
The medium of encaustic naturally lends itself to mixed media techniques. Encausticbord™ works exceptionally well when used alone with encaustic paint or in combination with collage, oil paints and oil sticks, image-transfer and incising. Acrylic paint is not an absorbent enough ground for encaustic. Acrylic paints should not be used in combination with encaustic since it is water-based and not compatible with wax.

To Finish
Encaustic is impervious to moisture and extremely durable, even more so when used on rigid Encausticbord™. Therefore, encaustic will not deteriorate, turn yellow or darken. Finished encaustic paintings do not have to be varnished or protected by glass, only polished with a soft cloth.